Arbutin is an ingredient extracted from the leaves of rhododendron plants, which can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase in the body and prevent the production of melanin, thereby reducing skin pigmentation and removing pigmentation. And freckles, as well as sterilization, anti-inflammatory effects, mainly used in cosmetics.
According to the different directions of the glycosidic bond in space, arbutin can be divided into β-arbutin(beta arbutin) and α-arbutin(alpha arbutin). The molecular formula of the two is exactly the same, the spatial structure is different, and the direction of the glycosidic bond is just opposite. For the two epimers of arbutin, namely α and β forms, the whitening effect and safety are different. It is reported that α-arbutin has a stronger inhibitory effect on melanin than β-arbutin. About 10 times stronger than other known whitening active ingredients in cosmetics. β-Arbutin damages the cell membrane of cultured cells, so the dosage of β-Arbutin is closely related to its safety. At present, when β-arbutin is used as an additive in cosmetics and the dosage is about 3%, when the dosage is less than this dosage, the catalytic activity of inhibiting tyrosinase in the skin is weak, and the skin whitening effect is not obvious. Significantly inhibits tyrosinase activity and produces cytotoxicity to body cells. In comparison, α-arbutin does not affect the growth of cells at higher concentrations. Therefore, the effectiveness and safety of whitening are higher than that of β-arbutin. Many cosmetic companies at home and abroad have adopted α-arbutin. - Arbutin replaces beta-arbutin as a whitening additive.
2. The function and application of α-arbutin
α-Arbutin (CAS: 84380-01-8) can effectively inhibit the activity of biological tyrosinase in the skin by directly combining with tyrosinase, accelerate the decomposition and excretion of melanin, and block the formation of melanin. Thereby reducing skin pigmentation, removes dark spots and freckles. It is the main raw material commonly used in whitening cosmetics at home and abroad. α-Arbutin has a good therapeutic effect on scars caused by ultraviolet burns, and has good anti-inflammatory, repairing and whitening effects.
Arbutin can lighten pigmentation while whitening, and has the functions of repairing, anti-inflammatory and bactericidal. In vitro experimental studies have shown that the presence of trace amounts of arbutin can promote cell growth and inhibit the degradation of proteins and insulin. Promotes cell growth and helps skin wounds heal. Arbutin is the main component of the new type of burn and scald medicine, which has the effect of analgesic and anti-inflammatory, quickly eliminates redness and swelling, and promotes healing. Therefore, this ingredient is helpful for inflammatory skin, and some acne skin care products also contain arbutin.